Machu Picchu – Two Grueling Days (Part I of II)
Having decided Peru (cheapest one-way flight) would be our first stop on our global tour, I couldn’t wait to embark on the Inca Trail and spy Machu Picchu. We booked our spots in June 2009 as only 200 hikers are allowed on the trail each day. Finally, the day was here!
Before we departed, the omens of inclement health were gathering. I had spent an evening in the chilly hostel restroom the day prior and Ash began to have fits with her stomach. Nevertheless, we met our guide and fellow hikers the night before hitting the trail for a debriefing. What a diverse and exciting group we would be getting to know: newlywed physicians from Finland, a globetrotting tandem from Ireland & Germany, a Brazilian man on leave from his wife for 10 days, a Niece and her courageous Aunt from Australia, and a young couple from England wrapping up a 9 month world expedition.
We were under a sheet, two blankets, and a bedspread by 10pm, though neither of us felt up for dinner – not even a guinea pig (a delicacy in Peru).
A newish blue van fetched us early the next morning and we were off to get final supplies (walking sticks, chocolate, water, ponchos) and headed for Kilometer 82 – the starting point of the Inca Trail. Day 1 on the route to Machu Picchu was characterized by a steep climb along the Vilcanota River then gradual inclines/declines until reaching the first campsite, 12 kilometers down the rocky trail. The terrain was not too difficult, but the inability to consume food/water, severe nausea, and an overall lack of energy were beginning to wreak havoc on Ashley’s frail body. We ate a simple dinner then Smitty (guide) taught Russ, Amelia (English couple), and me a classic Peruvian card game with the oh so clever name of “cardsâ€.
Twas a LONG night for Ash. She was up and down every 30 minutes having to evacuate from either end of her suffering body. All told, she got about 2.5 hours of sleep… the night before the toughest day of hiking.
Already awake when the porters roused us with a warm cup of cocoa tea, Ash was in bad shape. She nibbled on 2 bites of a cold pancake and it was clear a decision was looming. The nine other hikers moved along to the first checkpoint, while Ash took frequent breaks. Our companions were resting when we arrived and Smitty was concerned. I forced Ash to eat one piece of chocolate after seeing she could hardly lift her arm over her head. The hikers went ahead as Smitty advised us about our choices. We heard his recommendation loud and clear: the next five hours of hiking are steep, we will gain altitude, and the campsite is frigid. Because Ashley had barely eaten in two days and couldn’t keep anything down, it would be foolish for her to continue. So the decision was made – Ash would go back to Ollantaytambo via horse with Hernan (2nd guide) and meet us at Machu Picchu on Day 4. Saddened, we said our goodbyes and I provided Hernan with a healthy tip to take good care of my beloved gal.
With a heavy heart, I double-timed it with Smitty to catch up with the rest of the group. After a grueling 45 minutes uphill, we reached them at a river crossing. The next five hours offered some fantastic terrain coupled with the most difficult hiking of the Inca Trail. At first the sun was scorching, but as we reached the highest pass of the trail, the wind was fierce and the air cold. Having climbed 4,000 feet to Dead Woman’s Pass, the view was incredible. The physical drain of this hike validated our decision for Ash to head back… it really would have been Dead Woman’s Pass.
A two hour decent and we reached camp around 3pm and enjoyed a much needed siesta after hiking 11 kilometers. Claudio, the Brazilian fellow limped into camp later after falling and tweaked his knee. Ray (Irish man without red hair) had an infection on top of his right foot. Dutifully, the Finnish doctors were there to help them both. Smitty taught us a Peruvian dice game called Ambition then we dined on rice and chicken. I retired to my tent with Ashley on my mind, though I was happy to have her sleeping bag and pad on such a cold night!
Stay tuned for Day 3 & 4!
- Greg
Tips
1) Bring toilet paper and hand sanitizer – holes in the ground don’t have TP dispensers and it seems as if soap hasn’t been invented quite yet.
2) Other hikes leading to Machu Picchu are available – all cheaper than the Inca Trail. These can be booked once in Cusco days before your adventure. If your heart is set on the Inca Trail, book early.
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Mark S. Waligora
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belindaconnell
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Addie
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tamimiller
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Laura Keller
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Jessica Keeton
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Two vagabonds wandering the globe in search of unique cultures, people, cuisine, and experiences. Greg (frugal & determined) and Ash (playful & keen).
