Machu Picchu – What A Spectacle (Part II of II)

I awoke early in the morning on Day 3, the cold mountain air filling my lungs. A friendly porter was quick to deliver warm cocoa tea to us as we packed our sleeping bags/pads and personal belongings. Then we hit the Inca Trail for the longest day yet, 16 kilometers.

A steady uphill climb and we reached the circular ruins of Runkuracay where the fog slowly lifted from the depths of the Pacamayo valley below. The path beyond these ruins was particularly stunning with views over staggering cliffs. We enjoyed a warm lunch and a short siesta before embarking on a far easier stretch of the trail. The path hugs the mountain ridge within the cloudforest, full of brilliant orchids, meter thick moss, and tree ferns. We even passed through an “Inca subway” which was a cleverly carved tunnel into the rock. One last climb and we reached an impressive vista offering views of snow-capped Mount Salkantay. A few hours later, we reached the final camp after maneuvering hundreds of steep steps. A hot shower ($1.50) and a cold beer ($4.00) awaited us. I was able to speak briefly with Ash and was anxious to meet her at Machu Picchu the next day.

We indulged on plates of salty popcorn while waiting for Smitty and the Aussies to appear. Well past dark, Christina limped in donning a white bandage on her bloody forehead, a shredded right sleeve, and a red stained pant leg. The clasps on her boots became entwined and her momentum had taken her headfirst down the rocky steps of the Inca Trail. But Oz makes them tough – she had walked one more hour before two porters arrived to carry her to the camp. Myself and some fellow hikers indulged on a couple beers before saying our goodbyes to the helpful porters. Then off to sleep in anticipation of the Big Day!

3:45am came fast. And all 200 sleep deprived hikers had an extra spring in their step on this morning. But that enthusiasm had to wait until the checkpoint opened at 5:30am. Then, like a pack of wolves, we all scurried for the famed Sun Gate – our first glimpse of Machu Picchu. The name is a misnomer, at least on this day. It should be called the Cloud Gate! We sat impatienly for over an hour as the fog suffocated any chance to witness the spectacle. We had had enough and descended into the cloud forest until the fog thinned and ruins took shape. And there it was: Machu Picchu!

Anxious to see Ash and check on her health myself, I went ahead of the group towards the main entrance. But my own battles with the food would delay our homecoming. Like an unstoppable rebel force, my stomach forced me to retreat to the forest surrounding Machu Picchu. Does a bear crap in the woods? Yes. Does Greg. You betcha ya. I entered the path once more with a group of Asian tourists staring strangely at me, so I motioned that I had been photographing butterflies.

With that straightened out, I finally met up with Ash and thanked Hernan for taking great care of her. Low on energy and unable to eat, Ash was still able to see/touch/smell Machu Pichhu. We toured the impressive complex for 3+ hours – the temples, courtyards, terraced fields, and irrigation systems. A truly amazing sight. Well worth the rollercoaster ride!

Both worn out after four grueling days, Ash and I headed back to Cusco to get some sleep before departing the next day for Lake Titicaca, the birthplace of the Incas.

- Greg