Physician orders. Ash: 134 over 87. Greg: 137 over 82. Our blood pressure had reached dangerous levels in Rio de Janeiro. Doc’s prescription was rather simple: relaxation, rest, tasty eats, and surfing.
Somehow our backpacks beat us to the baggage claim in Salvador and we were off to Mercado Modelo for a two hour catamaran ride to Morro de Sao Paulo. Several reliable (hey, we will take any advice) sources suggested a trip to Brazil’s northeast coast would only be complete with a stop on this lively island. What a gem “Morro†turned out to be… beautiful, deserted beaches, parties, etc.
It also happened to be my 23rd birthday – we can all fib now and then! Ashley’s fantastic parents and Grandma June treated us to an incredible bungalow getaway on Morro’s 4th beach. Anima Hotel’s location ensures your tranquility as access is limited to an adventurous 25 minute van ride or two hour beach stroll. After a soundtrack of insects accompanied our dreams, mornings were met with singing parakeets. It is hard to beat a piping hot mug of Brazilian coffee, a tapioca omelet, and crashing waves to kick off the day.
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 Being in the tropics, the weather forecast was met with suspicion. On rainy days we caught up on sleep, shopped along the sand road in Vila, or watched drenched visitors dodge muddy puddles over caipirinhas. The bungalows were even outfitted with hammocks from which I could examine the daily life of brilliant red crabs.
Sunny days were glorious. Morro’s 2nd beach turns into a festival of art, dancing, sports, food, and surfing. Cold Skol cervezas in hand ($0.90 each), we watched the locals practicing Capoeira as the tide lapped at their tan feet. Confident that my balance and coordination were sufficient, I rented a surfboard for two hours and floated by helplessly as the pre-teens kept snaking my waves. No worries though… my back got one hell of a burn. Another day was spent island hopping aboard a small boat and we even slurped down raw oysters right from a nearby river. Ash was hilarious as she probed her one and only oyster after insisting the tiniest one would suffice. She did enjoy the Jamaican BBQ dinner on the beach over candlelight after Morro’s electric grid crashed for 3 hours. Not even my clumsy glass shattering maneuver with the red wine bottle could ruin it!
Beach parties until sunrise, various activities, and endless stretches of sand truly make Morro de Sao Paulo an island paradise. It attracts hipsters, Israeli soldiers, and honeymooners alike. Perhaps some future event will require a similar prescription.
- Greg
Tips
The
ferry from Salvador to Morro isn’t cheap ($42 each way), but you can save a total of $10 if you book a roundtrip ticket at Salvador’s port of Mercado Modelo.
The all day surfboard rental may seem like a good deal, but paddling wears on the novice’s shoulders. Opt for the per hour rate of $6 from any surf shop.
Beach #2 may be where all the action is, but if you prefer a quiet night sleep at a cheaper price, check out Beach #3. Then spend all the money you saved on fresh fruit drinks at 2:00am.
The Jamaican BBQ on Beach #2 is a great deal. $15 for all the sausage, steak, pork, pasta, and salad that you can handle. Skip lunch and enjoy an early dinner.